PART 2 - David Bowie IS

Picture of advertising poster
taken outside of AGO.
David Bowie, 1973
as Aladdin Sane.





While there were many facets to the Bowie exhibit, I have put most of the emphasis in my blog posts on the costume and textile aspects of the show.  There is a great deal online regarding the exhibit and I will add some links at the end of the last posting so you can follow up on further information if you wish to.

Although there were some integral designers featured in the exhibit, David Bowie himself designed or had a hand in the designing process for several of his stage outfits.  He also was the creative director of both the visual and musical elements of his work.  In an interview with William Burroughs in 1974, Burroughs asked Bowie " Do you do all your designs yourself?"  To which Bowie replied " Yes, I have to take control myself. I can't let anybody else do anything, for I find that I can do things better for me." 

From the Exhibit:
  "His influence on contemporary culture is arguably greater than any member of his generation.  His contribution to music, performance, fashion and design are milestones of our era.
    David Bowie showed us we could be who we wanted to be. In the 70's he promoted individualism and freedom of sexuality. He continues to inspire artists, designers, musicians and many followers with his distinctive persona and style. "





I was surprised to see how many of Bowie's early stage suits were made from quilted material or had quilting elements within the designs. Although unique at the time, they must have been exceedingly hot under the stage lighting.  Two suits in particular stood out in the exhibit.

The first was  the blue, red and gold 2 piece suit created by Freddie Burretti for the Ziggy Stardust Tour and Bowie's  " Starman" performance on Top of the Pops in 1972.





 






You can see in the close up photo that the fabric is obviously commercially quilted as opposed to hand or
machine designed quilting.








The second quilted suit was designed by Bowie himself and was the green and white suit he wore on the cover of The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust album.









Freddie Burretti cut the pattern and the clothing was sewn by Burretti and Sue Front, who baby sat for the Bowies.  David found the geometric dark green patterned on white fabric at a street market in London.




                                                           

Again, as you can see in the close up, the fabric appears to be commercially quilted.







Interestingly enough, the suit was later tinted turquoise by the album's graphic designer.

Freddie Burretti, who designed many of Bowie's clothes, both onstage and off met David at the Sombrero, a gay bar in Kensington ( London).  Freddie was a young tailor and fashion student who worked for a Greek tailor on the King's Road.  He was a dapper and strikingly handsome chap himself.

Burretti designed the early Ziggy Stardust costumes as well as signature suits that Bowie wore off stage. Bowie collaborated on several designs with Burretti and admitted that their earlier designs were influenced by the film, A Clockwork Orange.



There is no doubt that David Bowie had a wonderful slim line physique which was a designer's dream.  The beautifully tailored suits fit him like a dream!  On display in the exhibit was an unfinished jacket by Burretti which showed off some of the inner workings of the design.  Along side it was Burretti's measurement book opened to the David Bowie page.  For the real Bowie afficionados  I have copied the details exactly from his book for you:

Chest          34 1/2 "                                    
Waist          26 1/2                                      
Seat            35 1/2                                     
Shoulder     6                                                  
Sleeve 1      24 1/2                                          
Sleeve2       32                                                                                                                                                                                                             
1/2 back      8 1/2
Cross back  14
Inside leg     35
Outside leg  45
Thigh           19
Wrist            8
Biceps          11 1/2                               
Neck             14                                                                      
Nat waist      16
Jkt length      29
D.S.               8

After being spell bound by so many fashion statements, we wandered along to a rather magical room.  There were a couple more fashion mannequins positioned as you walked in but your eyes immediately focussed on a large black and white floor that was divided into 9 carpetted squares and surrounded by a tiled walkway. On the wall directly in front of those squares were 9 large monitors.  When you stood on a particular square on the floor, a monitor that was somehow electronically configured to that floor square, would suddenly flash on and play a video of David Bowie performing one of his hit songs.  When you moved to a different square, your headphones would kick in another song and the monitor associated with that square would come on.  It was rather like a nerdy tic tac toe game and quite enjoyable. We found ourselves compelled to stay there for a while and play like little kids jumping from one square to another. Many other adults joined in the game and the comraderie was exceptional. Great stuff!






To complete Part 2 of the Bowie postings, I will leave you with a very striking crimson suit created by Diana Moseley in 1987  for The Glass Spider Tour.  Diana was the personal costume designer to Freddie Mercury of the rock group Queen as well as a collaborator and friend to Bowie. Unfortunately, there was not much information forthcoming re the design or fabrics at the exhibit or online but the cut and styling was exquisite. The red suede shoes with silver toes and heel caps complimented it perfectly too.  Sadly,no info on them either.

                                                       


 







       Detail, red suit